Protect Yourself

Practice Safe Sun

Why? Well, because it protects my precious skin being singed by the harsh rays of the sun. Those rays are life-giving, yes, but they are also collagen-destroying and DNA-scrambling. I’d like to keep my youthful skin and my cancer-free status, thank you very much.

May is Melanoma and Skin Cancer Awareness Month, so with this in mind let’s dive in to my favorite topic:

I know my passion isn’t a popular one, but it should be. Gone are the days when sunscreen meant thick goopy cream with a chalky finish. There are SO MANY formulas available to us. Yes, even the ancient filters we’re stuck with here in the US are being made into formulas that are vastly better than what we used as kids. Hell, they’re better than what was readily available 10 years ago. 

And since we’re on the topic of ancient filters, I’ll do some light explaining for those who aren’t familiar. In the US, SPF is regulated as a drug. In the rest of the world, SPF is regulated as a cosmetic. This is part of the reason why the US (courtesy of the FDA) has a much harder time approving new and innovative SPF filters as opposed to Europe, Asia, Australia, etc.

There’s an oft-cited statistic that Europe bans 1,300 more chemicals than the US does, implying that their regulations are superior. This is misleading and not entirely true. The fact of the matter is that each regulating body is doing the best they can to make sure drugs and cosmetics are safe. Research is constantly evolving and as a result, regulations will, too. There’s some petitioning going on in Washington to expand our access to internationally approved SPF filters, because the way FDA regulations are currently set up make it prohibitively expensive for a company to conduct the research to get FDA approval. This is the Cliff’s notes explanation as to why people frequently say European & Asian SPF is superior. 

There’s also the argument of Chemical vs Mineral. Some people feel very strongly that mineral filters (Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide) are superior because non-nano particles don’t absorb into the bloodstream, and because Zinc is anti-inflammatory. The downside to mineral sunscreens is that they’re more likely to have a white cast or a chalky finish making them a poor choice for melanated skin, and can be drying.

Some people prefer chemical filters, because the formulas tend to be lightweight, may have a dewy or less drying finish, and can be used by all skin tones. The arguments against them usually revolve around potential to irritate sensitive skin and the fear of hormone disruption from chemical absorption. There haven’t been definitive links found between chemical SPF and endocrine disruption, and just because a substance is found in the blood does not mean it is causing harm. However, if you struggle with hormone dysregulation or are pregnant, you might feel safer selecting a mineral SPF. 

This brings me to my final point – whatever SPF you choose is ok!!!

The best sunscreen for you is the one that you will use frequently and liberally. The recommended dosage is 1/4 teaspoon for the face and neck, and 2 oz for the body. This amount should be reapplied every 90 min – 2 hours, and always after swimming, sweating and vigorous toweling. Wearing that much sunscreen can feel annoying, so if you prefer not to reapply so often, opt for UPF clothing and stay out of the sun from the hours of 11am – 2pm. And remember, sitting under an umbrella doesn’t exempt you from SPF. UV rays are reflecting off every surface and bouncing onto you, so unless you’re fully enclosed in a tent you are getting UV exposure.

Now, what you’ve really been waiting for… my favorite sunscreens!

Neova Everyday Facial Fluid SPF 44 is my current fave. It has DNA repair enzymes to help identify DNA damage as it’s happening, and repair it before it becomes permanent. The hybrid mineral/chemical formula is oil-free and has a dewy finish.

If you like the sound of that but want a satin finish that works well under makeup, try Neova Silc Screen 2.0 SPF 40. Same idea, with more silicones to give you a more matte complexion.

Reimann P20 is my ultimate SPF. It’s European, so not available in the US, but easy to get online. I have my husband pick it up for me whenever he goes home to England. When he initially told me that P20 lasts for 10 hours, I thought he was mistaken. Sure enough, there’s some sorcery in the formula that makes it last all day, making it an excellent choice for beach vacations and children. I like the Kids Formula SPF 50+ for my face, Original Spray SPF 50+ for my body (don’t go with the Air Powered spray because you will be a slippery seal), and this new Urban Shield Face SPF 50+ is in my cart.

This one is for you mineral fans! Le Prunier Plumscreen SPF 31 is the first all mineral formula I tried that was invisible on ALL skin tones. It’s OOS for another week or so, but the fresh batch is shipping soon so keep your eyes peeled.

Speaking of invisible mineral, I just got the new Eighth Day Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 and I really like it. It’s another all-mineral formula, and has a “universal tint” that doesn’t show up on my skin. Sometimes tints can be too dark for me but this one was invisible. I haven’t tried it on darker skin but I’m sure the internet has plenty of reviews if you’re so inclined. 

Now let’s talk body. Vacation is a fantastic brand with nostalgic packaging and innovative textures. They make creams in chemical (Classic Lotion SPF 50) and mineral (Mineral Lotion SPF 30) formulas, and an aerosol spray for easy application (Classic Spray SPF 30). I just received the new Orange Gelee SPF 30, which reminds me of my mom’s old Bain de Soleil SPF 4 (LOL) but actually protects. We also love the Chardonnay Oil SPF 30, which works wonderfully on the face, as well as the Chardonnay Lip Oil SPF 30. You cannot forget the lips. 

Speaking of lips, Cle de Peau UV Protective Lip Treatment SPF 25 is a great bullet lip balm. I don’t love a tinted lip product, so this silky untinted balm is a must-have for my summer purse and beach bag. 

Another oil formula I LOVE is Auteur Definitive Sun Drops. Apply 5 drops to your face and you’ll get a dewy but not oily glow. It’s easy to reapply, too. 

Last but not least, Mesoestetic Mesoprotech Light Water Antiaging Veil SPF 50+. This was the first sunscreen we carried at Raquel New York and it’s a best-seller. It’s light, smells great, plays well with other products and because it’s chemical, leaves no cast. It reminds me of a Korean sunscreen. Can’t go wrong with this one. 

FINALLY, for those who want a little more protection from the inside-out (this does not replace the need for topical SPF), we have Heliocare Advanced Antioxidant Supplement. I usually start taking these in the spring so that my body has a nice store of antioxidants to prevent oxidative damage. As with any ingestible, consult your medical team before use. 

There you have it!! A (non-exhaustive) guide to my (current) favorite sunscreens!