Hyperpigmentation Hacks That Work
Hyperpigmentation Treatment: Tricky, But Not Impossible.
September is like a secondary New Year for a lot of reasons: Back to School, Fashion Week, and my personal favorite – Correction Season! 10 out of 10 estheticians agree this is the perfect time to treat hyperpigmentation, slough off the dead skin that’s accumulated over the summer, clean out those pores, and get to work.
But what is pigmentation? Technically speaking, it is the distribution of melanin in the skin, which is natural and normal and healthy. However, the word usually refers to excessive pigmentation, aka hyperpigmentation. When the skin undergoes trauma, sometimes the melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) respond by pushing out excessive amounts of melanin. Melanin is packaged up in melanosomes and distributed via dendrites (imagine octopus tentacles) through the layers of the skin. Sometimes the melanin is plopped into the epidermis as is the case with Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, and sometimes it can be spread sneakily through the dermis in the case of Melasma. We also have Sun Spots, which are many times the result of lifelong UV exposure. Understanding what type of hyperpigmentation you’re dealing with is important to know how best to treat it, and that’s where your esthetician or dermatologist comes in. However, there are some more or less universal truths to handling and preventing discoloration from forming in the first place.
Step 1: Inhibit the Enzyme
There is a class of ingredients known as Tyrosinase Inhibitors. These disrupt activity of the enzyme that plays an important role in the melanogensis cascade. Top tyrosinase inhibitors include ingredients like Hydroquinone, 4-Butylresorcinol, Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Licorice Root, and Tranexamic Acid. If you’re serious about treating your discoloration, daily use of a tyrosinase inhibitor is key. My favorite is Calecim Professional Pigment Solution.
Step 2: Keep your Skin Cool
Heat is a form of trauma, and if you’re prone to hyperpigmentation this is a really important element to manage. In the case of inflammatory skin disorders like Melasma or Rosacea, heat exacerbates the condition. This is why you can be completely covered in sunscreen, wearing a big hat and sunglasses and hiding under an umbrella but one hot day at the beach makes your melasma flare. Same with saunas, steam rooms, hot tubs, etc. As a melasma-sufferer, I avoid those things like the plague – it pains me but it’s not worth it.
If you are going to be in a hot climate or you don’t want to stop your heated activities, the next best thing is to wear a neck fan or ice your face immediately after the heated session. Cryo globesare fantastic, as are refrigerated sheet masks. You can even buy a full face gel mask to keep in your fridge and do your best Buffalo Bill impression to Q Lazzarus’ Goodbye Horses.
Step 3: Sunscreen like your Life Depends on It
As I mentioned up top, sun spots are a result of long term UV damage. Remember those carefree days romping around in the sun as a child with nary a sunscreen bottle in sight? You may have that to thank for what you’re seeing on your skin in your 30’s and up. Sucks but it’s true. You can always talk to your derm about getting those spots lasered off, as there are lots of good options for true sun spots – just don’t go near your Melasma with IPL.
But whether or not you go the laser route, protect your investment and your skin’s future with sunscreen! My philosophy is the best sunscreen for you is the one you’ll use, liberally. My favorites are Lightsaver Triplesome SPF 40 (Tint is KEY for Melasma), Neova Everyday SPF 44, Sofie Pavitt Face Screentime SPF 30 and Auteur Definitive Sun Drops SPF 50.Minimum 1/4 teaspoon just for your face, every 2 hours of sun exposure and always after swimming/sweating.
A few other bonus steps are wearing wide brimmed hats and sunglasses – Retinal absorption of UV triggers the pigmentation cascade so if this is something you’re really serious about, make sure you’re wearing sunglasses. You need to balance it with early morning light for circadian health of course, but make sure you’re always strapped with those sunnies.
I also love this weird powder – I call it my sunscreen drink. I’m notoriously bad at taking my supplements daily so I do it when I remember, but it’s delicious and an easy way to boost your skin’s natural sun defense. Sun Powder has Nicotinamide and fern extract, like the Heliocare supplements I’ve talked about before, but also has Astaxanthin, Glutathione, Collagen Peptides, HA and Vitamin C. And it tastes like lemon lime Gatorade or watermelon Jolly Ranchers. I haven’t tried Unflavored but I wonder if that would be good in my coffee??
Anyway. There are lots of treatments you can have done to correct your pigmentation, so come see us to talk about what’s right for you. And the most important thing to remember is that THIS TAKES TIME. It took time to develop and it takes time to treat, so be patient and trust the process.
xx Raquel