Tech OBSESSION

LED Is An Absolute
Game Changer

LED Therapy, Low Level Light Therapy, Photobiomodulation – you may have heard these terms and wondered what they mean. They all refer to the same concept of using electromagnetic radiation (light) in a specific range of wavelengths (visible as colors) to modulate the functional activity of skin cells in order to achieve a positive therapeutic effect.  

A quick explainer of some of the terms you’ll see when reading about LED therapy:

LED – stands for Light Emitting Diode, and is the tiny little square that emits the light. They are semiconductor-based devices, and emit incoherent radiation in a narrow spectrum that makes it possible to isolate a very small range of wavelengths. 

Wavelength – This refers to the color that you see, or in the case of Infrared, don’t see. It is often listed as a number followed by “nm”, which stands for nanometers. LLLT refers to therapeutic uses of light in the range of 390-950 nm, which covers the spectrum from Violet to Near Infrared. 

Fluence & Irradiance- The strength of the LED device is determined by energy density (aka fluence) and power (aka irradiance). Fluence is measured in something called a Joule and Power is measured in Watts. There is a formula for determining how much light energy is being delivered to the treatment area, which measures in Joules/cm2 and milliWatts/cm2.  LLLT relies on low energy density and power, in the range of 0.04-50 J/cm2 and less than 100 mW. 

Dose – J/cm2 = mW/cm2 x time (in seconds) ÷ 1000. Huh? This is the formula to determine dose. Most devices will list the Irradiance, or how many mW/cm2 the device delivers. Multiply this number by the recommended treatment time in seconds and divide that by 1000. That will tell you what the Fluence is, which is the dose. As we know from medicine, dosage is very important, and can determine if a therapy is beneficial, neutral or detrimental. In the case of Red light at 660 nm for collagen stimulation, the optimal dose is between 8-15 J/cm2.

Now, back to what exactly Low Level Light Therapy is.

LLLT was discovered in 1967 by Hungarian scientist Endre Mester. While testing a ruby laser emitting light at 694 nm for carcinogenic effect, he noticed the absence of carcinogenicity but the increase of hair growth in the area that had been shaved for the radiation treatment. Further experimentation revealed that light therapy had a beneficial impact on wound healing. This initial research was conducted using lasers, which have different characteristics to LEDs, however the development of these compact, malleable and highly efficient light sources meant more opportunities for research and a wider range of therapeutic applications. In the 1990s, NASA began studying and utilizing LLLT to grow plants in outer space, as well as heal astronaut wounds and prevent the bone and muscle loss that occurs during extended stretches in microgravity. If it’s good enough for NASA, it’s good enough for me!

The way that LLLT works is simple. The light penetrates the tissue at a particular depth, which is dependent on the wavelength. Energy in the range of 390-600 nm is fairly superficial, while 600-1000 nm reaches deeper. The light is absorbed by atoms and molecules in target substances in the tissue, called chromophores. The absorption of energy triggers a sequence of processes that leads to a clinical result.

In esthetics, we are primarily focused on two goals. We use Red LED in the range of 630-670 nm to rejuvenate the skin by increasing collagen production, reducing inflammation and boosting cellular energy via production of ATP. We use Blue LED at 415-420 nm to reduce acne lesions by eliminating the overgrowth of cutibacterium acnes, which is one of the conditions present in a pimple. 

Now, despite decades of research on LLLT, the physiological mechanism of action of HOW these outcomes are achieved is still unknown. There are several hypotheses about how and why the cells are stimulated to produce the various reactions which are way too complex to detail here. The important thing to know is that LLLT is safe, effective and when used properly and diligently, provides real results. 

With all this in mind, and with the great task of testing many, many devices, we have settled on a small selection of LED devices for you to continue your treatments at home. 

For the face, I love the Viso LED Mask by Lumara. With 470 Red LEDs at 660 nm, the irradiance is between 12-18 J/cm2 in a 10 minute treatment. This range exists because the device has multiple power settings. The coverage on this flexible silicone mask is fantastic and I love that it’s a single wavelength. Although NIR is also beneficial and works well alongside Red wavelengths, NIR creates heat. For people like me with heat-sensitive skin issues (melasma and rosacea), heat can be detrimental. So, a heatless mask with a clinically proven wavelength was a no-brainer. 

For acne-sufferers, I chose the LightStim for Acne handheld device. It features 36 total LEDs – 24 Blue at 415 nm and 12 red at 630 nm. It has one energy setting and a 3-minute treatment timer. I prefer a handheld for Blue LED because light therapy for inflammatory acne really only needs to be spot-treated. The surrounding clear skin doesn’t benefit from the Blue LED, so keeping the treatment localized to the intended area is more effective and safer over all. Blue LED treatments should be kept short and sweet, and ideally followed by a Red LED treatment to help reduce inflammation further. 

Both of these are available in studio and online, so click below to read more about them and bring the treatment home! 

xx Raquel